Saturday, December 26, 2020

How Zephyr McLeod got his name.

 

How Young Zephyr McLeod Got His Name.

A Shaggy Dog Story

 

"Those who don’t believe in magic will never find it" – Roald Dahl.

Zephyr's first name was easy, the name just came to him, floated in on a westerly wind. Our little Zeph is sweet and warm as spring breeze, a breath of joy in our 2020 quarantine home.

Grace O'Malley and Zephyr McLeod
 

But our dogs all have two names (two that we are aware of anyway – who knows what Grace calls Zephyr in Doggish, but I strongly suspect isn’t always polite).

 

 

Alice Springs: She was a very happy energetic Australian Shepherd: her name is self-explanatory.

 

 

 

Tango Hombre: A name with two meanings: I have hunger (Tengo Hambre, very appropriate as he is a Labrador), but also named for his wonderful dancing – Tango Man -- he is the Tango King of our kitchen.

 

Zephyr, Tango, and Grace
Grace O’Malley: Named for a pirate and a clan leader in Ireland. The original Grace was born in 1533, and she had a fleet of 20 ships. Bit unusual for a woman in the16th century. Our Grace was a great shoe-pirate in her youth, shoe-stashes hidden away all over the house. And she has always been a brilliant leader of Dogs and negotiator for her kind (the original Grace negotiated for her captive son’s freedom with Queen Elizabeth, as well as for safety for O’Malley clan’s shipping routes after the English took Ireland). Our Grace leads the Local Dog Union, and negotiates afternoon walks and extra dog cookies for her and Tango at bedtime.

 

 

 

But Zephyr was without a 2nd name, until about week ago. I noted, “Zeph is soft as a cloud”, because he is, and Sky pointed out he also looks a bit like a cloud (well, a smallish black cloud), and then Sky discovered his name: “We could call him Zephyr McLeod.”

 

But there are layers and layers in that name. I’m about 99% scientist, about 1% believer in mysteries and magic. The 1% bit of me has _much_ more fun, and usually only stirs awake in a full moon, by a river at sunrise, or when I’m conversing with a raven. JT endures the 1% as well as he can.

 

I’m just going to give you the verifiable facts here, you might interpret them as you like, but I’ll admit upfront it is the 1% of me that really enjoys the full story of young Zephyr McLeod’s full name.

 

My family stepped into this story in year 2011. My husband James, and sons, Max and Sky, were on a trip to the Hebrides. I love Celtic music, and I love history. Three times I’ve planned a vacation with a peculiar goal in mind: visiting a place in Scotland or Ireland where a melody that I particularly love first entered the world, to play that old tune in its own place. For each of these trips, the tune of my heart was born hundreds of years before. I bring my whistle and play where the composer who created the tune surely once stood. I read what I can about the people and the place, their context in history, and the music serves as a conduit in time for me, and I can imagine the people who felt touched by the tune and their lives with an emotional bond, through their music, by closing my eyes and playing. My family puts up with this because they get to go on wonderful vacations to Ireland and Scotland. In this particular case, I was chasing the tune, “St. Kilda’s Wedding”, and Sky kindly brought along his fiddle as well.

 

St. Kilda’s is an archipelago, remote and wild. The people who lived there -- it had been inhabited for 2000 years -- were finally brought to their knees by epidemics. By the beginning of the last century only a handful remained. The last wedding to take place in St. Kilda’s was in 1926, and the last people to live in St. Kilda’s were starving, and so evacuated, in 1930. The place is now left to the birds, to the hardy soay sheep whose ancestors the people of St. Kilda’s kept, and to the sea.

 

The people who lived in St. Kilda’s in the Long Ago were very isolated, but they seem to have had a vibrant and happy community. They loved music, and they shared a fiddle between them, quick to bring it out when they had a visitor. Circa 1695, Martin Martin (gent), went to visit St. Kilda, and he wrote:

"The inhabitants of St Kilda, are much happier than the generality of mankind, as being almost the only people in the world who feel the sweetness of true liberty, simplicity, mutual love and cordial friendship, free from solicitous cares, and anxious covetousness; and the consequences that attend them." 

And this:

“They observe the festivals of Christmas, Easter, Good Friday, and that of All Saints. Upon the latter they bake a large cake, in form of a triangle, furrowed round, and it must be all eaten that night. They are hospitable, and charitable to strangers, as well as the poor belonging to themselves, for whom all the families contribute a proportion monthly, and at every festival each family sends them a piece of mutton or beef.”

 

We can still visit them up close and personal through their sweet music. You are invited to a wedding. I’m guessing a nice mutton stew is on the menu. Welcome! Close your eyes, and listen deep, with your heart. Here is a grand version of St. Kilda’s Wedding, played by Alasdair Fraser and Natalie Haas.

 

St. Kilda’s is now a World Heritage Site and a bird sanctuary.  You can hire a boat from the Isle of Harris and visit, but on many days of the summer the sea is too wild to make the journey, so it is the wind and the sea that decides on any given day if the journey is possible. Hoping we would be lucky, I had hired a sailboat, and we traveled 4,469 miles to reach the dock, Sky with his fiddle, me with my sweetest whistle in my pocket, intending to play St. Kilda’s wedding on St. Kilda’s landing. But the sea was raising a ruckus, a storm was up, and it was truly not a day for the last leg of our journey. St Kilda lay forever just beyond the horizon. As Rabbie Burns once wrote, “The best laid schemes o' mice an' men / Gang aft a-gley”.

 

Cross on the Kirk

 

So, there we were, ganged a-gley, in the beautiful Isle of Harris, with a day free before us, a wild chill wind, a fiddle, and a whistle.  

 

We decided to head south, to the southern-most bit of Harris, and play our tune for the sea. As it turns out, though we didn’t know it at the time, we were on was McLeod lands. We wound up in a lonely, beautiful place, at the ruins of an ancient Kirk, Tùr Chliamhainn (St Clements of Rodel) built for the Chiefs of the McLeods some 500 years ago. 


 

When we got to the Kirk, only the wind, a misty rain, and a very sweet old Dog were there to greet us. We decided The Dog must be the official tour guide of the McLeod clan, as she seemed to take this responsibility very seriously. 

 

The Dog

 The Dog gave us a complete tour of the property: we hiked up to see the scenic sheep on the hillside with her, she waited while we admired the stones in the old graveyard.

Headstone

 

 

 

The Dog even joined us inside for a tour of the exquisite old Kirk. Part of the roof was in ill repair, and the rain had also let itself in, and joined us in cold pools in the old Kirk floor.

 


 

Max and Sheep

 

      The Dog then took us around the proper vantage point, and we gazed up with her at the Sheela Na Gig set into the Kirk Wall. Sheela Na Gigs are wanton wild women carved in stone, whose images are often set into the walls of ancient churches in Scotland, Ireland, and sometimes found in England and Europe. Nobody knows for sure what the Sheela Na Gigs meant to the people who built them into their churches. But they are sexy and Earthy and wonderful, and often the carvings are thought to be far older than the Church wall that holds them. Generally, they have a look of a hag, but the Sheela of Tùr Chliamhainn is a rare beauty. AND she is holding a dog.  A couple of days ago I wrote to the “Sheela Na Gig” project (an effort in the UK to track and record them all) and inquired about her dog, and learned she is the only Sheela with a dog. Some have suggested it’s a sheep she is holding, but I’m quite sure its a dog. Not only did it look a dog, it never occurred to my family as we gazed up at her that could be holding anything else, but our guide The Dog seemed particularly proud when she showed the Sheela and her little companion to us.

Sheela Na Gig and her dog.





 

The Dog, Official Guide to the McLeod’s ancient Kirk, and our pup, young Zephyr McLeod, have something of the same look to them (although The Dog could have used a good brushing). They also share the same sweet spirits, as if they might share a bloodline not too far back. Both are black and white sheepdogs. Both are gentle, playful, ridiculously and utterly happy, and very perceptive.

 

Zephyr McLeod on a mission


 

The tomb of Alasdair Crotach MacLeod (1450-1547), 8th chieftain of the McLeod clan and the man who built the Kirk, occupies a beautiful side chamber off the main sanctuary. Alasdair was a man who loved music, the pipes and the harp; he had founded a piper’s college on Skye, and he kept local harpers and storytellers in good employ. The remains of his wife, son and grandson rest there with him, and many generations of McLeods are buried in the Kirkyard.

 

After The Dog’s excellent tour, Sky and I tucked into a place sheltered from the Wind (if you try to play a whistle in the Wind, Wind’ll take over if you give her half a chance, and chaos will ensue).  We played St. Kilda’s Wedding. We served up what else we knew by heart, and we played our old tunes and harmonies for the Sea, for the Wind, for The Dog, for the Sheep, for Sheela and her pup, we played for the Silkes and the Ghosts. Sky played circles around me, as he did. We played ‘til Sky’s hands were too cold to press to a string, and my fingers too cold cover a hole in my little tin whistle, and we could no longer shape the quiver in the air into notes.



The Dog, perfect host, must have sensed that James and Max loved tennis.  She conjured up an old tennis ball, and she offered the two of them a few rounds of Dog tennis (also known as Fetch), to keep them busy while Sky and I played up a storm. (The Dog won at Dog tennis, if I remember correctly, and she got to keep the ball).

 

We said farewell to The Dog, found ourselves a pub, and had warm Haggis for dinner that night, and Scotch whiskey to end a fine day.

 

The sea is so beautiful there. Perfect. A clarity to the water that curls into the high waves that I haven’t seen in other places. Many colored stones shine through the water, and seaweed bends and sways, shadows in the sunlight. Standing on the shore you can see right into that watery world-within-a-world, glimpse something of the view our cousins the dolphins, seals and whales enjoy. 

 

I love Scotland, and would be happy to linger, but now it is time to fast forward to Fall 2020. We had learned of a family who had lost their home to the California fires, sadly burned to the ground. Our little guest house was free and empty, as we had no friends and family traveling to visit us in COVID times, so we offered it up to them. Little Tesuque Canyon is so beautiful and peaceful we figured it would be a good and safe harbor while they found their feet and figured out what to do next. They took us up on it, and so we had a wonderful family staying with us in the guest house for a bit this fall/winter. It just happens that they are McLeods. They were a great to boon to our spirits, because it meant we got to enjoy the cheerful sounds of little Eli McLeod’s happy rumpus next door. His mom and his father both work in a California winery, and also some truly splendid bottles of wine have found their way to our holiday tables, thanks to the McLeods.

 

Also, this fall we learned that a pup was about to come into the world that needed a home, and as it happened, we had a home in need of a pup. So, Zephyr moved in with us, a few days after the McLeods come to stay in Tesuque. The charming little Eli McLeod seemed to like Zephyr just fine, so Zephyr joined our family welcomed with a McLeod seal of approval.

 

So, coincidence? 99% says of me yes, of course it is coincidence. 1% says Zephyr was a, “Thank you for the tunes”, sent along from Alasdair Crotach MacLeod and his Sheela. Nine whole years for a thank you, you say? If you’re a 500 year old Ghost and Sheela Na Gig, nine years is the blink of an eye, and I think their timing was perfect. Zephyr showed up just when we needed him.

 

This long-winded bit of Dog-gerel was written Christmas Day, 2020.

 

Feliz Navi-Dog!

 


PS I don’t have Sky and I playing St. Kilda’s recorded, but we also played the tune Rights of Man on that day in Harris, and Sky and I did record that tune once. The cover photo James took and is a stone passageway at Tùr Chliamhainn, and the word Tairseach means passage in Irish.

 

And here is me playing a Celtic-ish tune I wrote for my friend Jo Topol, Planxty Jo.

 

 

 

 

 


 

  

3 comments:

  1. If your curious about why I was wearing flip flops on a rainy cold day in Scotland, no, its not because I'm from Southern California, its because I had broken my foot the day before, there was no way that foot was going in a shoe, and there was no way I was going to give up a day in Scotland. So I hobbled around in flip flops. JT took a picture: https://www.flickr.com/photos/theilr/7475979526/in/album-72157630336480958/

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    1. I hiked the Lake District in Tevas because I had a terrible blister - a hiker makes do when that landscape and those voices beckon. Can't wait for that vaccine so I can go back and soak up those spirits.

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